Monte San Giorgio: the fossil mountain above Lake Lugano, a UNESCO site

Two hundred and forty-five million years ago this was a tropical lagoon, and the floor of that lagoon preserved marine reptiles, fish and insects better than anywhere else on earth. That is why Monte San Giorgio is a UNESCO site: a mountain you walk while reading time.

The route

We start from Meride, the village of the fossil museum, and climb through chestnut and beech woods to the summit at 1,097 m, where the view opens over both arms of Lake Lugano, across to Monte Generoso and, on clear days, as far as Monte Rosa.

We come down the other side past Alpe di Brusino and the dig sites that gave us Ticinosuchus and Ceresiosaurus: the coordinator tells you what lay beneath your feet when the Alps did not yet exist.

Who it's for

• anyone who wants a real mountain an hour from Milan
• anyone bringing teenagers who should go home with a story
• anyone who walks all year: you can climb this one in December too

Good to know

Entry to the Meride fossil museum is not included (CHF 12): visit it at the end if you like, it is worth the half hour. The first stretch is steep and slippery with wet leaves: poles recommended.

You are crossing into Switzerland

A valid ID in your pocket, not in your rucksack: Switzerland is not in the European Union and border checks do happen.

Mountain rescue is charged for: in Switzerland the helicopter is billed to the person who calls it. Guiddy accident insurance is included, but a Rega card (about €40 a year) or a policy covering rescue costs in Switzerland is what we suggest to everyone.

Swiss francs: huts and cable cars almost always take cards, but a few valley huts are still cash only. The European health card is valid in Switzerland for emergency care.

If your dog comes along: Switzerland requires a microchip, an EU pet passport and a valid rabies vaccination, given at least 21 days beforehand. Without them the dog is turned back at the border.

Getting there

From Milan the A9 motorway to Chiasso, then Mendrisio and the road up to Meride: just under an hour from the ring road. By train: Milan to Mendrisio, then the bus to Meride.

By car you need the Swiss motorway vignette (CHF 40, valid for the calendar year) if you use the motorway: you buy it at the border, at petrol stations near the crossing, or online.