Portovenere and the Gulf of Poets: the ridge above the sea and Palmaria island in two days

In December the Cinque Terre are half closed and half empty, but ten kilometres away there is a piece of Liguria that is at its best in winter: the Gulf of Poets, with Portovenere at the end and Palmaria island in front. No queues, low light, big sea.

Day 1 — the ridge to Portovenere

From Campiglia we take the ridge trail that runs above the sea to Portovenere: seven kilometres with the Tyrrhenian on one side and the gulf on the other, arriving at the church of San Pietro, set on the rock above Byron's grotto. Night and dinner in La Spezia.

Day 2 — Palmaria island

Ferry to Palmaria island and the full loop: five kilometres among Napoleonic forts, portoro marble quarries and the Terrizzo beaches, with Portovenere watching from across the water. Back by boat in the afternoon.

Who it's for

• anyone who wants the sea in winter, which beats the sea in August
• anyone after two short, panoramic days without mountain climbs
• dog owners

Good to know

The boat is included, but winter crossings are reduced and can be cancelled in rough seas: in that case Sunday is spent on Monte Muzzerone, above Portovenere. Lunches and dinners are not included.

Getting there

By train Milan–La Spezia Centrale in three hours, with the hotel in the centre: this is the weekend that works best without a car. By car two hours forty-five; leave it in La Spezia, the rest is bus and boat.