Sonogno and Val Vegorness: the Froda waterfall and the valley with no road

Sonogno is the last village in the Verzasca, where the road ends and silence begins. From there runs Val Vegorness, a side valley with no roads and no inhabited houses, its stone bridges and stone barns left exactly where they stood.

The route

First the Froda waterfall, which drops eighty metres just above the village, then the Val Vegorness path to Cabiòi and its bridges, where the stream runs through a granite gorge.

We come back to Sonogno, with time for the wool house and the old stone houses of the centre.

Who it's for

• anyone after an empty valley two hours from Milan
• anyone who loves streams and stone bridges more than summits
• June or September walkers, when the water is at its best

Good to know

After heavy rain the Vegorness fords become impassable: the coordinator falls back on the Froda loop. There is nowhere to eat in the valley: bring water and a packed lunch. Phone coverage is poor beyond Cabiòi.

You are crossing into Switzerland

A valid ID in your pocket, not in your rucksack: Switzerland is not in the European Union and border checks do happen.

Mountain rescue is charged for: in Switzerland the helicopter is billed to the person who calls it. Guiddy accident insurance is included, but a Rega card (about €40 a year) or a policy covering rescue costs in Switzerland is what we suggest to everyone.

Swiss francs: huts and cable cars almost always take cards, but a few valley huts are still cash only. The European health card is valid in Switzerland for emergency care.

If your dog comes along: Switzerland requires a microchip, an EU pet passport and a valid rabies vaccination, given at least 21 days beforehand. Without them the dog is turned back at the border.

Getting there

A9 to Bellinzona, then the whole Verzasca valley to Sonogno: two and a quarter hours from the ring road. The last stretch of road is narrow.

By car you need the Swiss motorway vignette (CHF 40, valid for the calendar year) if you use the motorway: you buy it at the border, at petrol stations near the crossing, or online.