The Gressoney Walser Trail: from Castel Savoia to Alpenzu, wooden villages below Monte Rosa

The Walser came to Gressoney from the Valais in the thirteenth century and left the finest wooden and stone villages in the Alps. The Walser Trail links them halfway up the slope above the Lys, Monte Rosa at the head of the valley: in November, with bare larches and white peaks, it is the best light of the year.

The route

From Gressoney-Saint-Jean we climb to Castel Savoia, Queen Margherita's castle, and take the trail up through the woods to Alpenzu Grande, the most intact Walser village, at 1,779 m, with houses on stone pillars and a view of Monte Rosa.

Lunch at Alpenzu, packed or at the village hut, then down to Gressoney-La-Trinité and back to Saint-Jean by bus.

Who it's for

• anyone who loves mountain villages more than summits
• anyone who wants Monte Rosa up close on a moderate walk
• dog owners

Good to know

The Alpenzu hut opens at weekends in autumn: to be checked the week before. Bus ticket for the return not included. With snow the guide changes the order of the stages.

Getting there

Gressoney-Saint-Jean is two hours from Milan: A4 and A5 to Pont-Saint-Martin, then the Gressoney valley road. Paid parking in the village. The return from La-Trinité is by local bus, ticket not included. Car pooling in the Telegram group.