The red Bernina train and pizzoccheri: two days between Tirano, Alp Grüm and the glaciers

The red Bernina train is a UNESCO World Heritage site and climbs from Tirano to over 2,200 m with no rack railway, winding up viaducts and spirals. Almost everyone rides it, watches from the window and comes back down. We get off and walk.

Day 1 — Tirano and the terraces

We meet in Tirano, visit the Madonna sanctuary and loop through the terraces of Baruffini, where wine is grown on dry-stone walls held up for centuries: ten kilometres and 500 metres of climb. Dinner with pizzoccheri and the night in Tirano.

Day 2 — from Alp Grüm to the glacier garden

In the morning we ride the Bernina up to Alp Grüm, at 2,091 m, where the train stops facing the Palü glacier. From there we walk down the old mule track to Cavaglia and its glacier garden, the potholes carved in the rock by water under the ice. Eight kilometres, all downhill, and the train back to Tirano.

Who it's for

• anyone who wants the finest train in the Alps without only looking at it
• anyone who enjoys walking downhill and places that feel far away but are two hours from home
• anyone who does not hold back at the table

Good to know

The Bernina ticket is included. In late November there can already be snow up there: the guide decides the day before whether mini-crampons are needed and, if the trail is not usable, we come down by train and walk in Valposchiavo. A valid ID for travel abroad is required: Alp Grüm and Cavaglia are in Switzerland.

Getting there

The train is the right way: Milan Central–Tirano in two and a half hours with one change, and the Bernina station is next to the Italian one. By car two and a half hours; park in Tirano and forget the car. ⚠️ Alp Grüm and Cavaglia are in Switzerland: bring a valid ID for travel abroad.