Val Grande: from Cicogna to Pogallo via Alpe Prà, the red beech loop

Val Grande is the largest wilderness area in the Alps: no roads, no inhabited villages, just abandoned pastures and beech woods. In late October the beeches turn red and the valley feels like another continent. This loop is the classic way in for a day.

The route

We start from Cicogna, the last village, and climb to Alpe Prà, a balcony over the heart of the valley. From there we descend through the beech woods to Pogallo, a pasture with the old bridge over the stream and houses that once were a small community.

The return follows the Sutermeister mule track, cut into the rock above the stream: one of the park's most scenic stretches. Back in Cicogna in the afternoon.

Who it's for

• anyone after beech colours rather than larches
• anyone seeking real silence, with no huts and no lifts
• anyone comfortable on narrow trail with short exposed stretches

Good to know

The road from Rovegro to Cicogna is narrow: car pooling recommended. Val Grande has no phone signal and no refreshment points: water and packed lunch. Short days: early start.

Getting there

Cicogna is an hour and fifty from Milan: A26 to Verbania, then San Bernardino Verbano, Rovegro and the narrow road to Cicogna. Small car park at the village entrance: car pooling strongly recommended, in the outing's Telegram group.