Valle di Muggio: snow houses, drying huts and the finest landscape in Switzerland

Before refrigerators, milk was kept cold here inside the nevère: stone towers where snow was packed in winter and which stayed cold enough in summer to keep milk and make cheese. Valle di Muggio has some thirty of them, and that, along with its terraces, is why it was named Swiss landscape of the year.

The route

From Cabbio, home of the ethnographic museum, we climb the nevère trail to Roncapiano and the high pastures under Monte Generoso, passing the graa, the little huts where chestnuts were dried.

Up there the view runs from Lake Lugano to the Po plain. We return along the terraced side, with the coordinator explaining how a mountain economy stayed alive without roads.

Who it's for

• anyone looking for places that never make it to Instagram
• anyone who wants to understand mountain life, not just look at it
• autumn walkers: the chestnut colours here last into November

Good to know

The ethnographic museum is scattered across the valley: you meet its points along the way, entry to individual buildings is not included. There are livestock guardian dogs in the pastures: the coordinator gives the rules before we pass.

You are crossing into Switzerland

A valid ID in your pocket, not in your rucksack: Switzerland is not in the European Union and border checks do happen.

Mountain rescue is charged for: in Switzerland the helicopter is billed to the person who calls it. Guiddy accident insurance is included, but a Rega card (about €40 a year) or a policy covering rescue costs in Switzerland is what we suggest to everyone.

Swiss francs: huts and cable cars almost always take cards, but a few valley huts are still cash only. The European health card is valid in Switzerland for emergency care.

If your dog comes along: Switzerland requires a microchip, an EU pet passport and a valid rabies vaccination, given at least 21 days beforehand. Without them the dog is turned back at the border.

Getting there

A9 to Chiasso, then Morbio and the Valle di Muggio road up to Cabbio: an hour from the ring road. Bus from Mendrisio for those arriving by train.

By car you need the Swiss motorway vignette (CHF 40, valid for the calendar year) if you use the motorway: you buy it at the border, at petrol stations near the crossing, or online.